Exploring Song Wat: Bangkok's Hottest Food Street

If you've been planning a food trip in Bangkok, Song Wat Road should definitely be on your list.  Over the past few years, this charming neighborhood has become one of the city's hottest spots.  While iconic areas like Yaowarat have always been famous, Song Wat has quietly built its own reputation and is now drawing huge crowds every day.

This quirky neighborhood is packed with incredible food, colorful street art, and plenty of photo-worthy corners.  Youngsters come here to catch up with friends, snap aesthetic photos and enjoy the lively atmosphere, while serious food hunters arrive with one mission - to eat as much as possible.

Restaurants line the streets one after another, and they're not just trendy newcomers.  Many have been serving their signature dishes for decades, earning loyal customers through consistently delicious food.  Besides the food scene, you'll also find unique little shops selling specialty products, like the Road of Cinnamon, along with street vendors tucked away in the alleys leading toward Chinatown.

We came prepared.  Our plan was simple: arrive with completely empty tummy because we had at least five different food stops on our list.

Gu Long Bao

Our first stop was Gu Long Bao, a Teochew-style bun shop that has been around for over a century.  They serve shumai, sweet and savoury buns, both steamed and pan-fried, along with classic Thai milk tea.  One of their signature ideas is serving the Thai milk tea in a cup that comes with a built-in-shumai holder.  Super convenient for snacking while walking around.

Thai milk tea and 10 pieces of pork shumai 160 Baht (around AUD 7.30)

The shumai was wonderfully meaty and juicy, especially when dipped into their tangy soy-vinegar sauce and topped with crispy bits of garlic.  It was easily one of the best shumai we've had.  The buns were equally impressive - soft, fluffy and pleasantly chewy.  You can instantly tell they're handmade rather than factory-produced.

Black sesame steamed bun 17 Baht (around AUD 0.88)

Roasted buns: BBQ pork bun and pork & salted egg 25 Baht each (around AUD 1.15)

After our warm-up snack, it was time for something more substantial.

Next, we headed to Urai Han Palo, famous for its braised goose.  Getting a table wasn't easy.  We almost gave up because the queue was incredibly long, and it was already peak lunch hour.  We had heard that they often sell out early, so we weren't feeling optimistic.

Luckily, patience paid off.  We managed to get in just before they ran out of food and ordered some of the last dishes available. 

Large stewed goose 840 Baht (around AUD 38.20)

The goose was incredibly tender, rich and beautifully aromatic.  Every bite was packed with flavour, and the portions were surprisingly generous.  We also ordered their meatball and vegetable soup, which had a bold peppery kick.  It turned out to be the perfect companion to balance the richness of the goose and refresh our palates between bites.

Soup 70 Baht (around AUD 3.20)

After all that savoury goodness, it was time to give our taste buds a little reset with something cold and sweet.

Our next stop was Nuury Chestnut for some ice cream.  The ice cream itself was delicious, but what really makes this place stand out is the toppings.  Besides the obvious chestnut, you can add honey.. or even vodka.  Yep, vodka on your ice cream!

It works incredibly well.  It instantly reminded me of my childhood visits to Zangrandi in Indonesia, where they served ice cream with a splash of rum.  If you've ever had ice cream paired with alcohol, you'll know exactly what I mean.  They're simply made for each other.

Chocolate with extra honey and coconut with vodka

Apparently, our sweet tooth still wasn't satisfied.  As wandered down the street, the beautiful cake display at Pink Rabbit practically called us inside.  Everything looked irresistible, so naturally we ordered more desserts.  We picked the lemon dark chocolate meringue, a blueberry Oreo pie and an adorable swan-shaped eclair.

Lemon dark choc 185 Baht (around AUD 8.40), Blueberry Oreo pie 195 baht (around AUD 8.90), swan eclair 70 Baht for 2 (around AUD 3.20)

The cakes were fantastic. The lemon meringue and dark chocolate had a wonderful balance of tangy and rich flavours, while the blueberry Oreo was creamy and indulgent without being overly sweet.

The only slight disappointment was the eclair.  It certainly won points for presentation - the swan shape was absolutely adorable - but unfortunately the pastry shell was too thick and the cream filling was a little too less.  It looked much better than it tasted, almost like it was designed for kids than serious pastry lovers.

Rabbit dirty coffee 125 Baht (around AUD 5.70)

By the end of the day, we were completely stuffed, but there were still so many places we didn't get to try.  If you have extra time, don't just stick to the main street.  Wander through the hidden alleys and explore smaller side streets - you'll discover even more local eateries, cozy cafes, street vendors and charming little shops.  There are also plenty of places to pick up souvenirs, clothes, toys and unique gifts, often at bargain prices.

Song Wat is much more than just another food destination.  It's a neighborhood full of character, history and hidden gems waiting to be discovered.  We barely scratched the surface on this visit, so one thing is certain, we will definitely be back to eat our way through the rest of it.

Gu Long Bao

983 Song Wat Rd, Samphanthawong, Bangkok

Open: Monday - Saturday 9am - 5pm (Sunday closed)

Urai Han Palo

935 Song Wat Road, Samphanthawong, Bangkok

Open: Daily from 10am - 1pm then reopen 4pm - 7pm

Nuury Chestnut Ice Cream

206 Trok Saphan Yuan, Samphanthawong, Bangkok

Ph: +66 85 364 9785

Open: 8am - 5pm (Sunday close at 3:30pm)

Pink Rabbit

1330, 1332 Song Wat Road, Chakkrawat, Bangkok

Ph: +66 88 088 5033

Open: 9am - 8pm

Gyukatsu Kyoto Katsugyu, Bangkok

If you've been to Japan, chances are you've come across gyukatsu - a delicious dish that's been loved there for quite some time.  Unlike the more familiar tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet), gyukatsu is made with beef that's lightly coated in crispy panko breadcrumbs and deep-fried just enough to keep the centre beautifully rare.  The fun part?  It's served with a small hot stone grill at your table, so you can cook each slice of beef to your preferred doneness, one piece at a time.

Although gyukatsu has been popular in Japan for years, Gyukatsu Kyoto Katsugyu only expanded to Bangkok around a year and half ago and has only recently opened its first Sydney location.  While we were visiting Bangkok, we had to see ourselves what all the hype was about.

It turned out to be such a fun dining experience.  Being able to grill the beef ourselves meant we could enjoy every bite exactly how we liked it, whether lightly seared or cooked through.  Since you cook the meat at your own pace, every piece stays hot and fresh instead of cooling down all at once.

Each set comes with a selection of dipping sauces that let you mix and match flavours, and some meals also include their curry sauce.  We absolutely loved the curry.  It was lighter than the rich Japanese curries we're used to, making it perfect pairing that didn't overpower the beef.  It also comes with a silky onsen egg, which added an extra layer of richness and made every bite even more satisfying. 

If you still have room after your meal, they also offer a selection of in-house desserts to finish things off on a sweet note.  Overall, it was a really enjoyable experience and we can definitely see why Gyukatsu Kyoto Katsugyu has become so popular.

Gyukatsu Kyoto Katsugyu

At Siam Center Bangkok

Lv. 2, 979 Rama 1 Road, Pathum Wan, Bangkok

Ph: +66 98 669 3182

Kanom Jeen Jee Liew, Phuket

Previously:

Nam Yoi Restaurant, Phuket

Kanom Jeen Jee Liew is one restaurant we always make time for whenever we're in Phuket.  No matter how many times we visit, it's a must-eat-spot.  One of their branches is conveniently located about 15 minutes from Phuket International Airport, making it the perfect place to stop either right after we land or just before our flight home.

Their signature dish is kanom jeen - Thai-style fresh rice vermicelli noodles served with a variety of delicious curry sauces.  There is a great variety of curries to choose from.  They have the classic green curry, as well as more unique options such as the delicate and flavourful crab curry.  If you're after something different, you can also try the fish yellow curry or the Southern-style fish innards curry, which has a much bolder, spicier and more pungent flavour. 

Besides the noodles, they offer a selection of tasty appetisers too.  My all-time-favourites are the crispy deep fried pork and kian tod or fried taro/pork roll.  Both are so good and the perfect side dishes.

Another thing I love is the self-serve station filled with fresh vegetables, herbs and pickles. You can help yourself to as much as you like, adding plenty of crunch and freshness to your kanom jeen for the perfect combination of flavours and textures.

Kanom jeen with crab sauce (kaeng poo)

Kanom jeen with Thai green curry (kaeng khiaw wan)

Kanom jeen with fish organ curry (kaeng tai pla)

Kian tod

Moo tod - deep fried pork

Fish cake

Kanom Jeen Jee Liew

355/3 Thep Krasatti Rd, Thep Krasatti, Thalang District, Phuket

(Opposite Thalang Phra Nang Sang School, near the Lotus' Thalang intersection

Ph: +66 81 256 9615

Open: Daily from 7:30am - 3pm

Sapan Hin Branch

66/2 Phuket Rd, Talat Yai, Mueang Phuket District

Ph: +66 83 175 5571

Open: Fri - Wed 8:30am - 7pm, Thu 9am - 5pm

 

Nam Yoi Restaurant, Phuket

Previously:

Buffet Breakfast Pullman Phuket Panwa Beach Resort 

After spending a bit of time wandering around the night market in Phuket Old Town, we headed to a restaurant just a little away from the tourist crowds.  A local friend recommended this place, and it is definitely did not disappoint.

The restaurant has been featured in the Michelin Guide since 2023 and has kept its spot every year since.  It specialises in authentic Phuket cuisine, with several dishes that you won't easily find at other restaurant.

I honestly can't remember the last time I went to a restaurant where every single dish we ordered was delicious.  But this was one of those rare places.  We ordered six dishes and every one of them was amazing.

I have to apologies because I probably can't tell you the name of each dish. My local friend took charge of ordering, there wasn't an English menu, and I was just happy to trust their choices!  Hopefully, the photos will do a better job than I can.

Prawn cakes

Deep fried fish egg with garlic

One dish that really surprised me was the fish roe fried with garlic.  I'd never tried it before, but after one bite, it instantly earned a spot on my list of favourite dishes.  The fish roe was rich, while the crispy garlic added so much flavour and texture.

Moo hong - Phuket style braised pork belly

One dish I have mention is the Moo Hong.  It was incredibly tender, practically melting in your mouth.  The sauce had the perfect balance of sweet and salty, making it one of the standout dishes of the meal. if you ever visit, it is definitely a must order.

Pad sator kapi goong - Shrimp with stink beans

Another standout was the stir-fried stick beans with shrimp and kapi (shrimp paste).  It was delicious and the kapi used just right, not too overpowering.  So, it enhanced the dish without masking the fresh flavours of the shrimp and stick beans.

Yum khai pla - fish egg salad

We also ordered another fish roe dish, but this one came with shredded green mango salad.  It was even better!  The combination of sweet, spicy, and tangy flavours was perfectly balanced, making every bite incredibly refreshing and addictive.

Gaeng kati goong

Thai Milk Tea

After that big meal, we still somehow found room to satisfy our sweet cravings at a nearby roti shop.  Roti is another popular street snack in Phuket and there was no way we were leaving without trying a few.

We ordered several to share.  Our all-time favourite is still the Nutella and banana roti, but you can never go wrong with the classic egg and condensed milk either.  Both were crispy on the outside, soft on the inside and absolutely delicious.

Roti with egg and condensed milk

Roti with nutella and banana

Roti with loaded butter

Out of curiosity, we also ordered one that looked like a little snake.  We had no idea what was inside, but it turned out to be absolutely loaded with butter!  Sorry, we forgot to take a photo of the inside because we were way too excited to cut it open.  The moment we sliced into its little tummy, melted butter cam oozing out like molten lava.

As fun as it looked, it wasn't our favourite.  It was just a little too greasy and all that butter overpowered the sweet, crispy roti flavour we love.

To finish off our sweet feast, we washed everything down with a refreshing icy Thai milk tea.  The perfect way to end another round of delicious Phuket Street food. 

Nam Yoi Restaurant, Phuket

63 250 Rumpattana Rd, Ratsada, Phuket 

Ph: +66 76 525 858

Stay tuned for the next blog still in Phuket:

Kanom Jeen Jee Liew, Phuket